The Bishop of Norwich
Cape Tawny NV

Do you know the Bishop of Norwich…?

Now for a further addition to Rick’s seasonal offering.

Whilst the official designation for ‘Cape Tawny’ dictates that the wine be at least eight years old, this example is noted only on the label as ‘NV’ (none vintage), although the youngest component is at least 17 years old. We know that this barrel has not been breached since it was first filled in 2006.

This limited 300 bottle release comes from the cellars of father and daughter team – Carel and Margaux Nel, who are considered to be the most celebrated ‘Port’ style producers in the Cape. Located in the sleepy dorp of Calitzdorp, the wine is believed to be 100% Tinta Barocca. No one can remember and official harvest records would be too challenging to find…

The wine was unearthed during a weekend road trip out to the Klein Karoo in May 2023. Sitting undisturbed in a single 200 litre ex-brandy barrel there was a little ullage from its time in the ‘tunnels’ where all the Boplaas fortified wines are stored. Barrels of old wine like this are kept, essentially, to add a little more gravitas when blended into the cellars’ more commercial Tawny offerings.

Contrary to the suggestion in the name, these tunnels are not subterranean but in garage-like structures on two floors, and where they are exposed to the extremes of temperature experienced in this most continental of all Cape Wineland climates: from 35 plus degrees in summer down to a chilly five degrees C. in winter.

Distinctly ‘tawny’ in appearance, the nose is extremely complex, ranging from the influence of residual brandy, through notes of peaches and apricots to toffee/caramel. There is a lovely focus about the wine, with great concentration and excellent spirit integration. Despite the fact the wine feels dry on entry, it carries between 100 and 110 grams per litre of residual sugar. The sweetness being endorsed by the persistent finish.

*****

A typically British initiative, the tradition of ‘passing the Port’ dates back centuries and comes with its own particular etiquette. It dictates that once a diner has poured a glass for his neighbour on the right, the decanter should be passed immediately to the left, with the vessel not halting from its clockwise progression around the table until such time as the decanter is emptied.

If someone is seen to be failing in their duties, the breach is brought to their attention by enquiring, ‘Do you know the Bishop of Norwich?’ For those who know the true meaning of this euphemism, it serves as a timely reminder, while for those who don’t, they are politely informed ‘He’s a terribly good chap, but he always forgets to pass the Port…’

The origin of the saying is attributed to one Henry Bathurst, who was the Bishop of Norwich from 1805 to 1837. Bishop Bathurst lived to the age of 93, but had a tendency in his later years to fall asleep at the end of his dinner. As a result, decanters would often accumulate around him, much to the consternation of others seated further along the table. As a bon vivant and with a prodigious capacity for wine consumption, some claimed that he was using his frailty to his own advantage.

Some authorities claim, however, that the saying originated with Bishop John Sheepshanks – the protagonist featured on The Liberator label. He held the position from 1893 to 1910 and although the most plausible origin lies with Bishop Bathurst, it appears that Bishop Sheepshank did much to perpetuate the myth.

So, raise a glass to Post-Brexit Britain, when we might once again align ourselves with the former colonies and welcome back Australian ‘Sherry’ and South African ‘Port’.

Rick is sure the Bishop would approve. Now, pass the Port…